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I think he's using something larger than the old standby 3/8", though I do remember a four-banded monster of his that might have worn 3/8".

I don't shoot tubing much anymore (gone over to chained rubber bands) but he's a great reminder that old school round tubing never stopped working when everyone got onboard the Theraband train.
 

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Hi CBob,

If you have a LOWES around where you live you can as jmp said the exact measurement its labeled as latex hose with a 3/8" OD and 1/4" ID this tubing works very well with heavy ammunition. Get yourself a good pouch that can accomodate 1/2" hexnuts and stones cos you never when you will need them
Also this tubing works well with heavier ammo like the 3/4oz lead egg sinkers *OUCH* that smarts
That will stop most any prey you shoot with it


My father swears by this stuff.. Personally I use chained bands but I have had my experiences with heavy tubes like these and they absolutely get the job done without struggle. The plus being great longevity..

Let us know how it turns out and do post kill pics


Note: I asked the clerk at LOWES if they had surgical tubing and she directed me to plumbing where they had hoses and thats where I found the latex hose which I feel will give you the most satisfaction in your tube style hunting slingshot.
 

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The tubing I use is 1/4IDX3/32inch wall. cut them a little longer than your normal length. If they are too short they can have too much hand shock. Deep draw also is the call on that. I had an old friend drop by the other day. He is an Army Ranger and stays in the field alot. He pulled out the sling I made him and it is still shooting serious power after three years. Of course he doesn't leave it out, he stores it in a dark place when not in use. I asked him if I had rebuilt it for him in the past, he said it was the exact same one and I am sure it's been at least three years plus. The draw gets alot easier after about 200 shots. Let me know If I can help you with developement.....Frogman
 

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Great looking flip there, nice work SIF.
Philly
 

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Remember bigger than the measurements that I posted won't work, unless you make the bands 2ft. for something like a siege machine. You can use thicker tubing, but it has to be longer than is useable for the normal draw length. So 1/4IDX3/32Wall is about as big as you can go and still maintein speed and power........Frogman
 

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Hmmmm........I sense the old school tubing is about to make a comeback! I love the chained bands but anyone who likes simple things should appreciate these elastics. My reasoning in getting into the chains in the beginning was I didn't want to deal with the (to me) complicated process of cutting bands to spec. With the tubes it's a pretty simple matter.

I think I will make a tubing band and strap up one of my gypsies......I've got a hickory fork in the process that Frogman's posts have had me thinking of banding with the tubes. I will also check Lowe's out next time I'm in town.
 

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This is yet another interesting thread about "new old stock" bandset options that are practical and effective.


It also sounds like something I'd love to try with my ever growing collection of quite large river stones. I'll just have to find some time to head up to Lowes to have a look. Anything that will shoot my stones well is high up on my list as I can consistently gather them for free........and their weight and tumbling affect certainly packs a punch.

I have one question concerning the tubes at this point....how is the draw on them Frogman?....or anyone else that has used them? They look quite monstrous but you never can tell these days ( at least they look/sound like they'll last forever)!

Thanks - John
 

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They are tough to draw. At first, but, after they have been broken in 150- 200 shots they get really smooth. They are rather soft after that, while still packing the power. If they are well taken care of they can shoot 5000 shots without breaking. At that point I have lost count. I won't deny you are giving up some speed, but, how much speed? Not more than a few FPS. If I am makeing kill shots out to 150 200ft how much more speed do I need? Good on you my friend
 

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They are tough to draw. At first, but, after they have been broken in 150- 200 shots they get really smooth. They are rather soft after that, while still packing the power. If they are well taken care of they can shoot 5000 shots without breaking. At that point I have lost count. I won't deny you are giving up some speed, but, how much speed? Not more than a few FPS. If I am makeing kill shots out to 150 200ft how much more speed do I need? Good on you my friend
You said it write Frogman the more you shoot them the better they feel, but you cant be a candy when it comes to shooting them better have a strong grip an draw deep or your wasting your time. If it was easy everyone would be shooting them?
 

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I plan to make a heavy duty surgical tubing slingshot something like frogman has pics of on his website. Anyone have a recommendation on tubing size and a source for the tubing.
CBob,

I was inspired by Frogman and I made myself a natural fork slingshot using latex tubing that I bought at Lowes. Lowes sells it by the foot and Home Depot sells it in 10 ft. lengths, pre cut. The fork is Oak. I let it dry about a month before cutting it down to size and driling 5/16 in. holes for the tubes. I attached the tubes to the pouch the same way as commercial slingshots are attached, by inserting the tube through a small hole in itself. I coated the fork with tung oil to help protect it from moisture. The slingshot shoots very well, is powerful, and the Y shape is very comfortable to hold. It will take any small game. The tubing that Frogman uses is much thicker than surgical tubing and is harder to draw. It is however better and more powerful. Hope this helps.

Here's a photo of my slingshots that have tubes attached. From left to right: Small Dankung that I like, my Frogman Inspired sling that i made with surgical tubing (shoots real accurate), a Maxi Power wood frame slingshot by Frogman that I recently purchased (my favorite), and a commercial slingshot with tapered tubes that shoots very well. I plan on making a few with Theraband Tubing since it comes in different weights. Tubes are great. I really like flat bands, but I prefer tubes.

happy trails
 

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Here are a couple I just made. Both are intended for hunting and both are lacking the black heat-shrink tubing which will cover the forks. The tubes are Theraband Green and pull in the neighborhood of 20 pounds. For all you old geezers like me, l suggest starting with 11 inch long cuts, which will results in a bit over 8 inches from fork tip to pouch. You can always shorten the tubes if that proves too easy a draw. These are intended to shoot .45 caliber lead balls.

The pouch attachment is clearly seen and I have found it to be very secure. I use snap-ring pliers to open the retaining band for assembly. The frames are 5/16 inch aluminum rod. One is wrapped with OD paracord and the other has a simple Fimo handle. I hope someone will find this useful.



 

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Henry in Panama,
I like your slingshots. Good work. I like the green look and the way you attached the tubes to the pouch; very cool. I like the paracord wrapped one a lot. Years ago I tried to make one out of a 1/4 in. thick aluminum rod but I didn't bend the forks equally and messed it up.

Shot In Foot,
I like that slingshot you made. Those small Chinese tubes are fast. Bet it shoots real well. Nice work.
 

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the other has a simple Fimo handle. I hope someone will find this useful.

Well, I'm certainly finding it useful, Henry. Thank you. I've found it a little heavier than I've become used to recently, but it has power aplenty and seems less sensitive to projectile size; a desireable attribute if used in the field where ammo resupply means a dry stream bed.
 
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