Secretstallion... I fully understand the great resource that this test data is. It compares apples-to-apples by duplicating the shot style. It let's us see what happens with changes to various band thicknesses, widths and ammo weights. This all helps us chose a more efficient band for a desired purpose. It was important to fully address PP's question from all angles, as you are now doing. All the machine shots will be slower than a freehand shot unless the shooter is collapsing their back tension at the moment of release (shooting error).
Wrist "flicking" is not really cheating. It's a shooting style that many use. I use the flip style even when shooting 50-75 yards. Duplicating the flip gives consistent results. We had one member who could hit bottle caps at 20 yards when flipping.
A "dead" testing rig refers to the completely static shot. The frame is fixed in position. The pouch hold is fixed. The pouch does not move backwards at all during the shot (after clamped in jaws). In comparison, some shooters will draw, pause and then use a pull-through release (active release). This gives more speed and sometimes helps with their accuracy by keeping the draw linear. Some shooters flip the frame and do well with accuracy.
To summarize, you have the following reasons why the machine is slower than freehand shots.
oversized pouch
oversized tabs at pouch
dead frame on machine
static pouch release
Thanks for doing the test to prove that the freehand shot is faster. I'm surprised at the huge difference. As said from the beginning, the data is an IDEA and a place to start when picking bands. It's a very valuable tool and the consistently slower numbers make it no less valuable. We all shoot a bit different so even if you freehand shot it would not guaranty the same numbers for the next shooter.
As a bit of a sidebar, I do all my testing freehand and it takes far too much time but does tell me what I am actually getting when I shoot. The shortfall of this method is that we are often limited to how much we can shoot the same each session. I like to rest a bit after a test and then recheck the numbers with a few shots later in the day or the next day. I flip during the test and flip when shooting at targets. I usually pick a spot past the chronograph to focus on and try to shoot as I always do. As for consistency here are some numbers I got last night. I use 10 shots because I don't trust myself like I would be able to trust a machine. The machine would save me a lot of time if I was comparing bands.
244, 246, 247, 245, 249, 246, 247, 245, 247, 247 - ave = 246 fps
274, 277,274,274, 276, 275, 276,278, 278, 277 - ave = 276 fps
Thanks again for all the numbers! The data saved me from wasting time with thick bands for small 1/4" and 5/16" ammo. The data also helped me see the big advantage of tapers.
One thing missing from the data would not be possible to record accurately. Shooters often wonder approx how many shots were possible from a bandcut at a set draw length. This info can have a bearing on band selection. Unfortunately, there are too many variables with shot count but enough tests could give an approx number that would take too much time to get.
As mentioned above, the other factor is the feel of the band. Lots of us enjoy the stretchy bands that don't feel like an overdrawn recurve bow (stack). It would take months to record the feel on each bandcut and then it would only be your opinion instead of a measurable fact. This topic can be chatted about in other forum posts. The numbers that I posted above were for Precise Orange .55mm - 5/8" x 7/16" x 7 1/4" with 5/16" and 1/4" ammo (32" draw). These bands were once a bit wider and didn't feel smooth and they shot a bit slower. I trimmed them down which reduced draw weight about 12 oz and increased speed a bit. The band went from feeling stiff to feeling much better. Personal opinion only.
