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Just sanding and sanding while the tubing arrives... [email protected] is a long time from dankung.
But the result will stays for... im sure
Here's what I do for attaching tubes to a wood slingshot:
. Wouldn't do it any other way.

By the way, over time I have become disenamored with pseudo-tapered tubes- they break too easily, tend to slip creating uneven sides, and take a lot more time to tie. I prefer a single tube on each side of the fork (1745, 2550, or 2050) and use a stretch factor of 5 (e.g., 30 inch draw for unstretched length of 6").
 

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Here are the results of tests on the standard Dankung configuration, i.e. one long tube, looped, with both ends tied at the pouch. This chart clearly shows that at the lighter projectile weights, 2040 is more powerful than 1842. Somewhere between 161 grains and 173 grains, 1842 takes the lead. These figures represent velocities ranging from a high of 267 fps to a low of 119 fps. As a matter of interest, I recorded 302.7 fps with the same .30 cal ball and a pseudo taper 2040 set, proving that more is not always better.
Maximum recorded power was 17.17 lb/ft.

Unfortunately, I was unable to find any ammo that weighs 250 grains, so the jump from 205 to 308 is a bit more than I would have liked. Once all my tests are complete, I will make them available. I still have two more band configurations to test.

View attachment 17156
Mr. hermit. Thank you for all your great research do you have any recommendation for tube set up beer single or tapered or looped tubes to get me to as close to 300 ft./s with 10 mm lead weigh 92 grain. I shoot fall butterfly with a 58 inch fall draw I usually cut my bands to around 12 inches however I am new to two world I currently have some 1632?, And from 1842. Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated thank you so much

todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
Hi Todd, I've never shot butterfly, but I believe either looped 2040 or 1842 will get the job done. The key to maximum velocity/power is to stretch the rubber to its limit, draw fast, release quickly. Holding the draw allows the rubber to cool and reduces efficiency. There is wealth of information in the Speed Freaks and Power Rangers Forums.

Henry
 

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Option 1 a + b (the simple option) - you can either pull straight through the frame - or have the tube/s wrap around the edge of the fork TTF - you can also use the matchstick method.

post-24770-0-97737000-1496149443_thumb.j


Option 2 (Toddy's paracord tabs) - you can also use Chicago bolts and leather tabs - or simply take the tubes pull trough the hole and slip back over the posts.

post-24770-0-12598400-1498329611_thumb.j


Option 3 - snared wrap and tuck - bound wrap and tuck but you loop the binding rubber through the hole and 'snare' the tube before wrapping. Can also simply wrap and tuck.

Option 4 - ball-in-tube (single tube) - basically same as option 1 - but uses a ball inserted in the tube to achieve the same result.

Hope that helps?
I know it’s an old thread but interesting nonetheless.
I like the options presented here.
 
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