@Henry the tutorial was what I was referring to.
This is what I use for draw weight.say guy's can you give me some info on what you use to aquire you weight of ammo, and your weight in draw. I've been ask to do some of these and can't, also maybe I can also bother you in how to put in photos .... I've got some real uglys to show ya
Glad you didn't use my pouch with this setup. I doubt it is strong enough to use safely, as it is not intended to be. It is great to see the exporation you are doing with the tubes however.I made a brief side trip into the raw power side of tapered 1842. I wanted to see if I could get 200+ fps with .495 lead balls. I got 222 fps (67.7 ms), 19.96 lbs/ft (26.69 joules). I have no doubt there is more power there, but I'm not strong enough to pull past 32 inches without shaking enough to endanger my Chrony. I'll have my son take a crack at it later. This is Mr. Stubby with the double tapered set.
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I used steel eye bolts 3 inches long. I drilled a hole in each fork 2 inches deep, the length of the . The hole is sized so that the bolts screw in with very little force. Then I forced as much 2 part epoxy as i could down the holes and coated the threads on the eye bolts with it. I screwed the bolts in and gave it 24 hours to cure. It is very important not to make the holes too small as that would put radial force from the inside on the forks and the last thing you want is a steel eye bolt hitting you in the face. I tested the eyes by applying 50 pounds of pull with a rope and my fish scale.Henry, I got to tell ya "Mr. Stubby" is just plain coooooool looking - I think at some point I read here how you installed those eye-bolts if ya wouldn't mind going through it again it would be appreciated.......thanks
had I knew how efficient those 1842 bands were I would have ordered those too, thanks for your info
Henry, Marvelous job on the tutorial!!
I have my doubts that this is a solvable problem, but the contact glue is worth a try. A common characteristic of approaching the upper limits of performance is short band life. Please elaborate on the short section of 1745 addition.Henry...With a possible problem at the loop connection could it be that the constrictor knot is creating an unusual amount of stress at this point...Would it help to use a bit of contact cement here ( at the connection ), allow it to dry then attach the connection ( with pressure ) ...Over this adding a short section of 1745 tubing...?
I stretch them to near maximum, about 5 times relaxed length. The next time I make a set I will measure the force.Thanks again Henry. I appreciate your efforts and time in this project and I am sure it will be helpful go many. Approximately how much force are you applying when stretching the bands during fabrication?
OK, I got it. That is the method I use to tie my Theraband tubes and I tried it on the tapered #107s. I'll have to try to figure out a way to expand the reinforcing tube. Maybe the tips ends of my Circlip pliers will work.Henry...What I meant about adding the short piece of 1745, was to actually fit ( with narrow pliers ) a 1/4 inch ( or slightly shorter ) section over the area where the loop connects...Neil was doing this type of surgery in the construction of his fixed tubes on his Trophy slingshot...With the contact cemented area under this extra layer of tube, this should make a good connection with less severe stress on the connection point...If it were really necessary you could fix a constrictor knot over this 1/4 inch section of 1745, but I personally would try to avoid to much stress at this point...When I learn how to use this #@%"# computer I`ll try to be more articulate in my explanations ( I might even take a few shots with my #@%"# digital camera if I can learn how to get it on the forum display )...