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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This little slingshot is the first I made in smooth sumac. It's 6.5" long and 3" wide. Fully banded, it weighs in at 1.12oz. I have a few others that weigh in under an ounce. Anyone made a really light weight but not tiny slingshot? I'm just curious. By comparison, my little Axiom Champ comes in at 1.9oz, but it also has a short lanyard.

Joe
 

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· Mojave Mo
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This is an interesting topic. I enjoy minimalist camping and backpacking where weight is always a concern. Most of us think about strength and fit in our slingshots. And a slingshot of any type is much lighter and takes up less space than my Ruger Blackhawk and 50rounds. I've seen frames here made out of cardboard and paper too. Of course what could weigh less than a frameless setup!?

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The red on the left is 1.062 oz/30.1 g . The white on the right is 0.896 oz/25.49 g. These weights are as strung up with tubes,leather and pouch

I usually string them with 1745 tubes but I have 1842s on the white one right now.

Almost forgot. The red including pinky lanyard is 5" X3" wide.. The other is the same.
 

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My first consideration when making any slingshot is whether the materials used and the design chosen will be strong enough to handle the intended flat band sets or tubes: catastrophic structural failure is simply too dangerous given the potential of high velocity debris nailing your face in the midst of shooting action. :hmm:

Thus, keeping weight down really boils down to a sound combination of suitable materials and appropriate thickness of these materials where this is essential. The problem with any type of wood is its inconsistent internal grain structure, which may or may not be visible externally before you start making a slingshot. Moreover, that nice looking natural fork may have been subjected to some degree of internal wood rot, which will have created weaknesses where you do not want them.

Generally speaking, it is always a good idea to place the natural fork inside a vise, and to apply some serious tension with the hands (wear working gloves) or attaching some rope to the forks and pulling hard to see how resistant it is. Better safe than sorry, right?

By definition, a very compact sized natural which has a relatively thin branch thickness should be fine, but that thickness needs to increase more or less proportionally the longer and wider that natural fork becomes: a natural frame with thin branches and high forks is more likely to break unexpectedly due to leverage effects. Think weight (thickness) vs. safety.

The same principle also applies to metals, but at least here you can assume that its molecular structure is generally very consistent, along with ample information about its structural properties and behavior when stress factors are applied. Chances are that metal will be on the whole far more forgiving than wood. Plastic is another ball game altogether, particularly as it develops weaknesses when subjected to UV and temperature changes: it does not age well either, unlike wood. Caution with those 3-D layer printed plastic slingshots, the big new fashion to come.

Ultimately, if super lightweight is your prime objective, I would suggest taking a closer look at corrugated cardboard in combination with fiber reinforced adhesive tape: you can make a slingshot with this stuff anywhere you are, particularly if you forgot your favorite slingshot at home. You will be surprised at how strong the frame shown in the attached photo is.

Of course, do not get it wet...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
flip- do you know what wood yours are made of? they're pretty light weight and they have a heavy, dense wood look to them.

That cardboard slingshot is disqualified from contention, from the world of light weight wooden slingshots, as it's fake wood! Now, to keep from getting killed by a light weight slingshot, make your bands the width of the smallest fork tip. That's my rule of thumb.

Forksville- Never heard of that wood. Do you know the scientific name?

Joe
 

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flip- do you know what wood yours are made of? they're pretty light weight and they have a heavy, dense wood look to them.

That cardboard slingshot is disqualified from contention, from the world of light weight wooden slingshots, as it's fake wood! Now, to keep from getting killed by a light weight slingshot, make your bands the width of the smallest fork tip. That's my rule of thumb.

Forksville- Never heard of that wood. Do you know the scientific name?

Joe
The red one is Red Tipped Photinia, it is a common landscaping shrub here in Texas that can get up to 25' tall and are often used as hedges/fences. The lighter is most likely Pecan. Nut bearing trees are usually pretty stout.
 

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The red on the left is 1.062 oz/30.1 g . The white on the right is 0.896 oz/25.49 g. These weights are as strung up with tubes,leather and pouch
I usually string them with 1745 tubes but I have 1842s on the white one right now.
Almost forgot. The red including pinky lanyard is 5" X3" wide.. The other is the same.
Those are nice Flip, Ash forks ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
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5,673 Posts
These are my favorites
attachicon.gif
IMG_0293.jpg

The red on the left is 1.062 oz/30.1 g . The white on the right is 0.896 oz/25.49 g. These weights are as strung up with tubes,leather and pouch
I usually string them with 1745 tubes but I have 1842s on the white one right now.
Almost forgot. The red including pinky lanyard is 5" X3" wide.. The other is the same.
Those are nice Flip, Ash forks ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Red tipped Photinia and pecan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Flipgun- Interesting you have a light weight fork out of pecan. It's weight is 47 pounds per cubic foot. Fairly heavy wood. By comparison, staghorn sumac is 33 pounds per cubic foot and smooth sumac would come in around 18 pounds. Of course, most smooth sumac trees don't even hit 2" in diameter. I'm considering weighing 1 cubic inch of the stuff to see what it would weigh for a cubic foot.

Joe
 
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