he is right, dremel is before, than you sand, but! if you want a smooth finish you sand to a higher grit, if you stop say at 220 grit your lacquer will always look rough. than you spray lacquer than either sand, or use steel wool, than repeat starting at the spray lacquer and so on until you get the shine you desire. its far from a 2 step process.
A small buff like on a dremel is very difficult to get an even smooth finish with. There are several ways to get a smooth shiny finish. The first and hardest is to get the surface you are finishing completely smooth and even up to a very high grit (which just means that the scratches that are left are very small and shallow) then coat it with a finish that leaves a thin, uniform coat (like lacquer) over the very smooth uniform surface, and ta dah, smooth shiny surface. Easy to say, harder to do.
The second way is to get a nice smooth uniform surface, but don't take the time to sand it up to a high grit, stop at say 220 or 320. Then apply a thicker finish that will self level over the scratches (like polyurethane). That's easier, but it takes a while to dry, and is very easy to get dust in or fingerprints on while it's wet.
A third way is to sand to 220 or 320, and apply a thicker layer of a quick drying finish (like superglue) and then after it dries to a rough unattractive finish, buff it with a large loose cotton buff treated with a moderately abrasive compound like tripoli, to smooth off the high spots, and remove the surface scratches till the surface is smooth. Then use a second buff treated with a very fine compound like white rouge to remove the very small swirls and scratches from the tripoli and leave a level shiny surface that is very durable, harder than cured poly, water and oil proof (unlike wax and oil finishes) and that is more comfortable to the hand than the polyurethane.
I've done all 3, and still use them all if a certain situation seems to call for it, but in general I prefer the third, because it's quick, there is little hand sanding or polishing involved, and the end product is very durable. There are some special pitfalls and gotcha's with a ca finish, but learning to avoid them is the fun part, so I'll leave that as an exercise for the class
Actually, quite the opposite. I find that almost any "closed" finish like CA, or Polyurethane, or Lacquer, however smooth, has a "plasticky" kinda sticky feeling to it after holding it for extended periods, especially if it's hot and the hand sweats a little. I tend to give them a coat of floor wax and buff lightly with a clean (never loaded with compound) cotton buff to make it feel a little more like oiled and waxed wood than plastic. For comfortable, I prefer several coats of danish oil, dried then waxed with johnson's floor wax. That does require a little maintenance every so often however
Good advice given so far. I have used Spar Varnish, which puts a really thick, high gloss shine on wood. They use it on boat
hulls because it's durable.
Personally, I have a hard time putting in a whole lot of time on finishes, and sanding, because all my slingshots are out getting used
dropped, loaned to others, and take the odd fork hit. In saying that though, I still sand, and finish, but just not to the extent of being
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.