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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody,

I realized that on one of my oil soaked naturals (OTT): The TBG starts to slip out below the (strong!) binding, because the fork ends are oily from soaking them in linseed oil. It didn't completely slip through because I always check after some shots but still it moved a couple of millimeters.

Has anybody else noticed something similar and what do you do about it?

Thanks and best regards,

l.
 

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That is one of the reasons I prefer a hard coating like acrylic or CA Glue. That said, I have oiled slingshots that don't slip the bands. You might want to, as Hrawk said, give the slingshot some more time to cure. After that, I would try using a very diluted dishwashing liquid solution to remove the surface residue.
 

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Oiled slingshots need time - much time!!
I shoot mine 3-4 weeks after the last coat of lineseed oil and had NEVER one slipping band.

Wenn du das Band an die Gabelenden presst und findest danach noch Ölspuren am Band, dann lass sie noch `ne Weile liegen!

Gruß/Regards
Torsten
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey guys,

thanks for the hints - I am pretty sure I didn't leave it to cure long enough.

Torsten, 3 - 4 Wochen, so lange besitze ich ja fast noch keine selbstgemachte Schleuder
. Aber Danke für den Tipp, ich werde das so machen und bin ziemlich sicher, dass das Problem damit gelöst ist. Benutzt Du eigentlich Leinöl oder Leinölfirnis ?

Thanks and best regards,

l.
 

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In very broad terms, there are two types of oils: siccative and non-siccative. The term "siccative" just means "drying", which is sadly a misnomer. Some oils harden on exposure to the atmosphere (siccative ones) and some do not (non-siccative); the hardening process is a chemical reaction that does not involve evaporation of the oil. Linseed oil (and a few other oils from seeds) is a hardening oil. Olive oil and canola oil are not hardening, nor generally are petroleum oils of the sort used in your car. So called "boiled linseed oil" has been chemically treated to accelerate the hardening process.

If you want to try a little test, take a couple of old jar lids or something similar and put a drop or two of boiled linseed oil on one and a drop or two of canola oil on the other. Put the lids aside for a week or two. After a couple of weeks, the linseed oil will have set up and at least begun to harden, but the canola oil will still be runny.

Big hints: Use "boiled linseed oil", as it will harden faster. Do not use cooking oils on your frames. And as already stated, give the frames at least a couple of weeks to harden up.

Cheers ....... Charles
 

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Good advice given. I don't groove my forks, and as of yet, haven't had a problem with slipping bands. I do use BLO often but the one thing
I don't do is soak a fork, I just apply a coat, let it absorb then apply a second, let sit for awhile then by the third coat the wood is starting to
say 'enough' and I have to wipe the oil off as it doesn't appear to want to take anymore.

I know with one natural fork not all that long ago, I did soak it for a couple of days in a bath of BLO, and was for days afterwards, wiping, and
then wiping again, and it really put the piece and my shooting of the fork behind, as every time thereafter, grabbing it would leave a sheen of oil
on my hands until I had left it long enough to cure somewhat and wipe off the excess bleed off.


sean
 

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Sometimes if a frame is tacky I will give it a very light sanding with a P800 grit paper, failing that a rub with a micro fiber cloth usually does the trick for me.

You could try applying multiple coats to your work giving it time to dry in between coats rather than leaving it in the linseed, which it sounds like is building up on the surface having already soaked into the wood. Each wood and finishing product is different though
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey guys,

that was very informative, thank you all. Charles, although I didn't do enough for university today, I feel like I learned something useful - Thanks!

Have fun shooting,

ll.
 
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