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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can,t yet shoot straight but I am already keen to build my first slingshot.

Thinking about band attachment methods I am keen to try the slot method as seen on many OTF slingshots. I am wondering what the pros and cons are for putting the slots on the sides or fronts of the forks

I understand on OTF putting them on the top makes sense to reduce hand slap but this isn't an issue on TTF, are there any other issues/factors to consider?

Putting the slots on the sides would look neater and would also allow for the adding of grooves for wrap and tuck if desired. I also suspect it might be easier to cut the slots but I am not to sure about this yet.

I will be building a chunky aluminium frame so strength will not be an issue.

Any advice from those that know will be much appreciated.

Thanks

Mike
 

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Hand slap may be an issue even if not felt - sort of means your elastic is to much for the ammo.

I'd recommend a simple frame to start with as a first build - the Chalice and Lil' Plinker are obvious choices ( the curves are simple to shape and they are amazing shooting frame) - however if you are concerned about your ability a asymmetrical frame can hide mistakes better.

If you are wanting specifically TTF - the R10 would be my recommendation.

You can drill a 1/8" hole centrally in the band grooves which would allow looped tubes to be fitted (matchstick) - or 4.5 and allow paracord tabs which would add flexibility.

I usually file my grooves in - though if you have a circular saw you could 'score/channel' the material if you're careful. Aluminium can clog files etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I enjoy both the design and making so do not want to follow a specific pattern. I have a PPMG and want to improve on that - if I can :)

The slots I am talking about are for no tie fixings, the thin slot with a hole at the bottom. I am not sure quite how these work and will do a few tests regarding hole/slot sizes and slot location - is it better central to the hole or offset to one side etc
 

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Bill Hats has a video and a few forum posts saying that the band slots are not very reliable and bands can pop out and snap you in the face. Consider drilling fork holes to allow the use of Pocket Predators ProClips. Maybe even consider making your own aluminum Flip Clips. Or use bolts and nuts with washers to bolt the bands on using a small slit in the center of the band ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did a bit of drilling and slotting today on a piece of scrap aluminium and I couldn't make a band slot that worked reliably. I must be doing something wrong and will have to have a think and try again another day.

What did seem to work was this:

Aircraft Airplane Monoplane Propeller Propeller


4mm hole and 3mm pin with gold theraband. It seems to hold very well - on the bench - not sure how it would hold up in action! Has anyone tried something similar. Easy to fit and looks very neat. It might be difficult to fit with just a short pin though.

An hour of hard work with a hacksaw, drill and grinder saw my frame roughed out. Still needs fork ends finishing and a bit of shaping and cleaning up before attaching scales.

Wood Font Metal Fashion accessory Auto part


Thanks for looking, any advice on the attachment slots greatly appreciated?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What about this simple system?:
I like that :) it looks just as neat, and simpler to make. I guess the square pin will be more secure than a round one too, also the wood will provide more friction.

Is the matchstick on the front face of the frame or the rear or doesn't it matter?

Is the slot width important?

A small groove to seat the matchstick/pin in might make it even neater.

I have gone with wrap and tuck now on this one but will likely try that system next time.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wood Road surface Brick Brickwork Art


It doesnt look pretty. Handle scales are temporary modelling clay and bands are just temporarily lashed on.

I wanted to play around with the shape to see what works best. When happy I will make up some home made micarta handles.

I can get about 2 inch groups at 11m (with the odd flyer) but cannot shoot much as the clay gets warm and starts to shift about.

Definitely got the making bug on these and already designing the next one which will be more pocket friendly and have some sort of slot retention system for the bands.

I will trim the bands when it is all finished but leaving the tails on - and underneath the active part of the band starts me thinking. Does this reduce the efficiency of the band, ie drag between the inactive and active parts of the band? Also does the friction of the band on the frame and round frame corners have any effect on the efficiency of the bands? Just wondering if it is worth thinking about this when designing a slingshot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Considering the mistakes I made, it turned out OK

Wood Hand tool Axe Tool Tomahawk


Glove Wood Sock Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Fashion accessory Metal


I have never made a stack of Mycarta that thick and it got very warm.

It is a while since I used any epoxy and it didnt occur to me that the exothermic nature of the stuff might cause a problem.

It fizzed and smoked a bit and I chucked it outside (in the rain) in case it caught fire.

The rain and the aluminium clamp plates saved the day and the laminate is fine. If it had been structural I would probably have started again though.

I haven't time to test it out but will do as soon as I can.

Not sure what class of slingshot it falls into, I guess it is between a hammer grip and a pinch grip.
 

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