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Hey guys, I ordered a looped band slingshot just to give tubes a try for something different. I typically shoot 9.5 (3/8) steel. What would be a good tube for this size ammo?
It all depends on your draw length. I use single 2040s with a 50" draw for 3/8" steel. I use looped 1632s with a shorter draw. They both have fairly easy pulls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys, I ordered a looped band slingshot just to give tubes a try for something different. I typically shoot 9.5 (3/8) steel. What would be a good tube for this size ammo?
It all depends on your draw length. I use single 2040s with a 50" draw for 3/8" steel. I use looped 1632s with a shorter draw. They both have fairly easy pulls.
i am a short draw guy. 30". I have 1632 and 2040 at home so I should be able to make decent bands with what I have then. Tubes seem to be a whole other animal.
 

· Ray Rowden
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With a 30 inch draw Loops of either the 1632 or 2040 will be okay for 3/8-inch steel. We tube shooter tend to play with the length to find the right balance of draw weight and performance.

Single 2040s are okay for plinking with 3/8 if they are kept around 5-1/2 to 6 inches in length so they really get stretched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
With a 30 inch draw Loops of either the 1632 or 2040 will be okay for 3/8-inch steel. We tube shooter tend to play with the length to find the right balance of draw weight and performance.
Single 2040s are okay for plinking with 3/8 if they are kept around 5-1/2 to 6 inches in length so they really get stretched.
So with a looped bandset they should fly pretty nice then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, looped 1632 should do just fine. Like KawKan mentioned, it might take a little trial and error to find your "sweet spot".
Perfect. That means I am just waiting on the frame. I was expecting a little trial and error I just wanted to make sure I didn't end up buying bands too weak or way too strong.
 

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I use 1842 for Target with a 8 and 1/2 pound draw weight. 7 in active band length with a 33 inch draw.

Cheers
Is that looped? I always found 1842 had a slightly heavier draw than 2040.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
My bands are straight bands no Loop. I pinch them in my tips since I have clamp tips for securing the bands or tubes.
 

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I find 2040 pseudos to be perfect can cutting, light pulling but straight shooting. I don't need the extra speed of the doubles, and prefer the lighter draw weight so I can shoot a higher volume of volleys. My doubles sections, aka, "taper" is roughly 1/3 the total active length, and it nicely splits the speed/power difference between the singles and doubles.

Doubles 1632 at about 500% is also really nice, but I find it is bogged by the 3/8", it lobs them ok, but they arc. Going to 600% works, but is stiffer than I want. But I like doubled 500% 1632 as a scalding 5/16"
 

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Also, look up tabs. Photo is my LT inspired multi-ply frame with gypsy tabs tied in OTT, holding single 2040's, that are meant to be short range high durability 5/16 tubeset. With various style tabs you can shoot just about any band type on any type of frame. Don't get me wrong, I do like dedicated tube shooters too, but options abound, and for me, the options are where the fun is with slingshots!

I actually really like the sight picture with double single or double tubes in what people call a "Gypsy tab" when the tab is tied in or clamped on an OTT frame. Not to mention that it is more secure and maybe faster to get reset after a shot since the elastic is captured inside the tab. You also have the choice to clamp/tie TTF, which most dedicated tube frames don't give you without other trickery. Anyway, have fun with the tubes! I'm still exploring and trying stuff and tubes are definitely a fun elastic
 

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