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I'd like to celebrate my 2,000th post with something memorable.

I have stumbled upon a new way of attaching bands to the pouch. It derives from the way tubular bands are attached.

All you do is:

(1) Make the end like this, with a tiny hole punched or burned through with a hot wire. Ideally the end should be rounded, but it's not critical. For thin elastic, you might double the end over before making the hole.



(2) Pull the end through the pouch hole.



(3) Pull the end of the band through the band hole and tighten up. I use a hemostat, but it can be done without.

This method has several advantages over the traditional method of tying bands on with string or elastic.

  • It's simple, cheap and fast to tie. There's no string or elastic needed.
  • It's long lasting. There's no chaffing of string on band.
  • It's secure. The band has to tear before it gives.
  • It's high performance. It's lighter by far than any other method of attachment. It will significantly improve the velocity of light projectiles.
  • It's accurate. Maybe not more accurate than a well tied pouch by a traditional method, but it's easy to be consistent with the length and balance.

FREE TO COPY.
I make no claim of owning this idea. I hope this design catches on and helps a lot of people. Spread the word. I call this the Type-Z attachment method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BTW, I forgot to mention that I have folded the band in half as I pulled the last bit through. It isn't necessary, but it helps the bands to lie flat while the pouch is still vertical (see the picture).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The tapered bands are 12mm wide at the hole. The hole is at an equal 6mm (1/4") from the sides and end. The end isn't under much tension; the sides are under more tension. It could be closer to the end, but the weight saving is negligible. Play around and see what works best for you.

It works for double strand bands too. I expect the results to be comparable to Fastbands, though maybe not quite as long lasting. Compared to Fastbands, they are a lot less wasteful as I can cut single lengths and simple tapers.
 

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"Southern Flip Style"
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Hey Dan,
I've tried it in the past, but had some problems with tear out, so I gave up on it. Maybe I had some old rubber.
I'll try it again and let you know my findings.
I agree that it's a great idea if it lasts!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey Dan,
I've tried it in the past, but had some problems with tear out, so I gave up on it. Maybe I had some old rubber.
I'll try it again and let you know my findings.
I agree that it's a great idea if it lasts!!!
It is possible to do this badly. Too large a hole, or too much tension compared to the strength of the bit that goes around the back would make it stretch and tear. My first set went wrong because I had the hole too small. I have been shooting these 230mm x18mm x2mm tapers and there's no wear, nor sign of the hole stretching beyond where it should be.
 

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"Southern Flip Style"
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That's good to know...making a set right now..... I thought it would especially be a great way to make the Rough-N-Ready band sets.
 

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Good post Dan
 

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"Southern Flip Style"
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OK, so here is a set made up on an oldie (but goodie) pouch. It's raining here today but I took it out and shot for quite a while with no problems!!!
Just to see I made these up with some simple "Crepe" rubber bands which can be prone to abrasion a little more IMHO. My experiments a couple years back must have indeed been with bad rubber as I made them the same today with no issues. I had a stash of old rubber back then. And because I didn't have a business there was no turn over. The summer heat can be brutal here on rubber even if kept out of the sunlight. I've since learned to store it in the house not in the shop.
I put #6 sized holes in the bands with a standard leather punch. I used hemostats and water (spit)
to ease the cinch up process on the pouch. I now think this is a viable way, especially for the "hobbyist," to make bands without a band stretcher. Simple... forceps, scissors, and hole punch/ heated nail are all that's needed.

I think as for me personally, I can tie bands as fast or faster with the special tying/ stretcher jig I designed and made for the business, but it's always nice to know and have alternate ways of doing things. This requires no tying material, and that alone is a great added bonus!!

Nice post Dan!!! Two thumbs up Mate!!!! I recommend that everyone give it a try!!!

Perry ~ A+ Slingshots


 

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That method I used on a Dankung Bi Thor that had a bar 90 degrees to the handle as the top of the fork. I was quite new to slingshots at the time but desperately wanted to use a band on a Dankung so I used that method on the fork end of the band. It is still on the dankung but the band started tearing mid way down the length. But not at the attachment site.

To make the hole I used my hole punch. It worked.

I will have to try this more.

Thanks Dan for the info on this method. I may not have tried this again for some time, if at all.
 

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Hey, will this work on neckties ? I keep forgetting how to make a half-windsor knot.
 
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