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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

the "W" slingshot, my best concept so far, has taken the next step.

I noticed that the rotating grip did not self center when a very strong band set was fully drawn out.

The rotating mechanism was just a steel tube that rotated around a thinner steel tube, the thinner tube beeing welded to the frame. It obviously had too much friction to rotate when the system was set under full pressure.

So I ordered some parts and enhanced the setup.

I added two ball bearings, originally from a motorcycle engine. I pressed them on the 12 mm steel rod that was welded to the frame, then pressed everything into a fitting aluminium tube (the grip). I cooled and heated the parts for the pressing. They are totally firm and there is NO play.

It works very well Now the grip rotates smoothly, even when I draw out my toughest bands.

Regards

Jörg





 

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Self centreing helps alot i noticed that you may being pulling you sling and fire in a slightly differnt way your slingshot is pointing there should be more comercial self centreing slingshots
 

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I was wondering when you'd get around to that. Now you just need to get rid of the pivots on the forks, widen them out for normal flat band mounting and I'd say it was perfect. Easy there Joerg! Don't get mad! Easy, Easy there big guy, just teasing.
 

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What's wrong with pivots on the forks? Maybe just modify the pivots for wider bands, possibly create an eronomical handle...and SELL the thing...no way I can build that, but sure would love to have one...If you can't do it because of your job, I'll do it for you! Something that cool can't be left on the shelf!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is no need to change anything in order to use wide bands. My setup actually uses 28 cm wide bands (2 times 14 cm) at the fork side! You just fold it and attach it kink and tie like. Works great and is very good for the band lifespan.

The big advantage of the hinges is the super fast band change. This may be the fastest way to change from a light training band to a heavy hunting type. The hinges are mass production stuff and dirt cheap.

Regards

Jörg
 

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There is no need to change anything in order to use wide bands. My setup actually uses 28 cm wide bands (2 times 14 cm) at the fork side! You just fold it and attach it kink and tie like. Works great and is very good for the band lifespan.

The big advantage of the hinges is the super fast band change. This may be the fastest way to change from a light training band to a heavy hunting type. The hinges are mass production stuff and dirt cheap.

Regards

Jörg
Personally, I like the hinges. I thought that was one of the better designs of the W. They make it easy to swap out the bands.
 

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Alright then, don't change them. What about maybe bending the forks a bit so the hinges don't cause a loss in draw length? Just a thought, maybe I'm splitting hairs. And SELL the thing! Really! It's just too cool: I have a PS-52, but it has it's share of drawbacks: you seem to have dumped everthing extraneous on it and created the antithesis of everything cool about it.
Can you cant this unit when you shoot or are you relegated to over the top shooting like I see in your video due to it's short prongs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You can cant it, no problem. The self centering works in any direction.

Regarding the ergo side of it, I originally started out with Fimo around the grip. But then I discovered that the round, smooth grip works better. Think about it, a sword handle or a baseball bat are that way as well. The human hand actually is really optimized by evolution to hold round clubs and spears.

I believe the round grip, hold in a hammer style, is the best solution. It simply allows you to draw back the strongest bands.

It sure would be possible to bend the fork backwards, but it would make the slingshot harder to stow in a backpack. The loss of draw length is minimal and more than compensated by the advantage of the low fork.

I really don't want to sell my slingshots. Again, my job contract does not allow it and I am no cheater. But I permit non commercial copies, so if you want, go ahead and make one yourself! It is not that hard, and the wooden version doesn't require expensive tools + materials.

Greetings from cold, wet Germany

Jörg
 

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I really meant it when I said to Joerg that I was just kidding about changing his "W" fantastic shooter. I was just poking him a little because he will always explain a little more why he designed it the way he did. That helps all of us to get tuned in a little better. I wish Joerg would video how he bends the steel he makes them with. That is my biggest problem when it comes to making the kind of slingshots I'd really like to make.I subscribe to his blog and u-tube channels to make sure I catch his rare how-to videos. I can bend steel rod using some heat, but getting it perfect is hard without a jig and limited ways to make a jig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I really meant it when I said to Joerg that I was just kidding about changing his "W" fantastic shooter. I was just poking him a little because he will always explain a little more why he designed it the way he did. That helps all of us to get tuned in a little better. I wish Joerg would video how he bends the steel he makes them with. That is my biggest problem when it comes to making the kind of slingshots I'd really like to make.I subscribe to his blog and u-tube channels to make sure I catch his rare how-to videos. I can bend steel rod using some heat, but getting it perfect is hard without a jig and limited ways to make a jig.
Smitty, the "W" only requires two bendings, each one 90 degrees. Since the steel is thick (half inch stainless), heating the rod is absolutely required.

I just heat it enough so it glows red for about 20 mm (like, .75") and then I use a very thick, long steel tube that fits loosely over the .5" steel. I stop right in the middle of the red glow and bend. It is very easy.

You need to clamp the rod in a good vise, of course.

Sandpaper is needed to remove the discoloring from the heating procedure.

If you want to use the pivots, make sure drilling the holes to the end of the rod comes first. After the bending, it is almost impossible to clamp the ends into your vise of your drilling machine.

Also make sure that you use the right drill bit. Stainless steel needs a special drill material, and you need to drill slowly. Once the stainless steel got too hot (so it glows), forget about any further drilling, it will be too hard.

Jörg
 

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why did you took an aluminium-handle and not one out of stainless steel?

i think its possible to make the whole W out of aluminium. that would be very light and

you can still use the strongest tubes or bands and the W would not deform.

frodo
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I used Aluminium because aluminium tubing does not have an inner welding seam, like steel tubes do. Aluminium tubes are seamless. Much better for pressing ball bearings in!

I don't think that I want to use Aluminium for the whole slingshot. First, I neither have the equipment nor the skills to weld it, and also aluminium breaks without much warning - it is much more brittle than steel.

But I have build a "backpack" slingshot today, very lightweight, with the same self centering grip mechanism. Will post a picture soon.

Regards

Jörg
 

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Thank you very much Joerg, that helped a lot, especially the "how to drill" part. I never thought about bit heat making the steel too hard. Do you use a wire welder for your welding on your projects with argon? I was thinking of buying a oxy-acetylene torch to heat and braze to make my projects with and do without the welder for now? What do you think...(and others who know!)? I've used a torch at work for thirty years and barely ever use the mig, although I can, I'm just trying to get one tool to help for now. I do have a drill press and 4" hand grinder-sander.
 

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Yeah, right now I've been using a plumbers torch with map gas. It works fine for bending, but won't get quite hot enough to braze weld.
 
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