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So Many Marbles ------------- So Little Time ;-)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting some flat material in .. How do you guys start the process of cutting the first taper without wasting a lot of material ?

wll
 

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watching, I just started cutting the taper with the straight edge , maybe I should be throwing the first cut away :oops:
 

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This video gives a good demo on cutting tapers. Can be done with any ruler, but the adjustable guide he uses is really helpful. I got one of these guides and love it, although very careful marking with a ruler gets the job done as well.

 

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I have the taper ruler shown in the video, which works very well the cut individual tapers. I also have the taper templates that let you cut the entire width of the latex. You are stuck with a certain taper so you want to know exactly what you use but it is ridiculously fast and works really well.

Honestly I was pleasantly surprised at how well the taper ruler works. I haven't locked in for quarter inch steel at 15 x 10 taper with .5 simple shot latex
 

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So Many Marbles ------------- So Little Time ;-)
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, I have the taper ruler also, but on your VERY FIRST CUT, must you trim the one side to the angle of your taper don't you ?

wll.
 

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There’s no need to trim the first band. Just cut your taper using the straight edge of the elastic. You may think there will be one side tapered and one side straight, but it don’t work like that. You can cut the top and bottom of your band on a slight angle to make the both sides “even” but it’s unnecessary. If this makes any sense….
 

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Yes, I have the taper ruler also, but on your VERY FIRST CUT, must you trim the one side to the angle of your taper don't you ?

wll.

If you want to have perfectly symmetrical tapers you will have to trim the edge of the latex to half of the taper and then start in with the ruler. But I don't think the symmetrical tapers make a big difference- I think several have tested this and found no detectable difference between symmetrical tapers (both sides of band taper) vs asymmetrical tapers (one side of band square, other side tapered).

If you use this ruler with latex the way it comes your tapers will have one straight edge and one tapered edge and this is just fine.

If you get really serious about symmetrical tapers where both edges of the band taper, you can take a half taper wedge off the elastic before using the ruler or order some plexiglass cutting templates. And yes, then you will lose some elastic, or rather, you will have some elastic that doesn't make it into bands.

The extra elastic isn't necessarily wasted tough- the stuff that doesn't get into bands can but cut into strips and used to tie the bands to the forks. This is what I do.

For starting out, I wouldn't worry about it and just go with asymmetrical tapers. They will do just fine and if you want to get really precise about it there are ways to get that done.
 

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So Many Marbles ------------- So Little Time ;-)
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you want to have perfectly symmetrical tapers you will have to trim the edge of the latex to half of the taper and then start in with the ruler. But I don't think the symmetrical tapers make a big difference- I think several have tested this and found no detectable difference between symmetrical tapers (both sides of band taper) vs asymmetrical tapers (one side of band square, other side tapered).

If you use this ruler with latex the way it comes your tapers will have one straight edge and one tapered edge and this is just fine.

If you get really serious about symmetrical tapers where both edges of the band taper, you can take a half taper wedge off the elastic before using the ruler or order some plexiglass cutting templates. And yes, then you will lose some elastic, or rather, you will have some elastic that doesn't make it into bands.

The extra elastic isn't necessarily wasted tough- the stuff that doesn't get into bands can but cut into strips and used to tie the bands to the forks. This is what I do.

For starting out, I wouldn't worry about it and just go with asymmetrical tapers. They will do just fine and if you want to get really precise about it there are ways to get that done.
Thank you very much High Desert Flipper, just the kind of Info I was looking for ; - )

wll
 

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I use the " Btoon " band jig .
The key is to alternate your taper measure . Example : Using a 25 mm x 20 mm taper .
Mark your 25 mm on one side and 20 mm on the other . Cut band . Now mark your 20 mm first and 25 mm on the other end . Now you cut two bands leaving your remaining stock square . Continue alternating in the fashion . You end up with one small piece of stock which can be used for wrap and tuck or BB shooting bands . No waste this way .
 

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Yeah I just shoot asymmetrical tapers and go on. :) best of luck with your band cutting endeavors.
 
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Here is how I proceed to cut tapered flat bands to maximize the use of available rubber:

With the sheet of rubber cut to the needed length placed vertically on the cutting board on front of me, I place a (finger safety enhanced) metal cutting ruler vertically on the sheet of rubber, and then use a foldable wood measuring ruler placed perpendicularly (90 degrees) against the vertically placed and held down metal cutting ruler to measure the required tapered width at the very top and bottom of the sheet of rubber for each separate flat band prior to cutting, and then invert the wider section of each flat band section from top to bottom for every new band section, and measure again as mentioned above.

To keep it simple, you start out by measuring, say 20 mm taper width at the top, and 12 mm taper width at the bottom for the first band, and then measure 20 mm width at the bottom 12 mm at the top for band number two. Once you have cut one set of two tapered bands, the side of your sheet of rubber should be straight again. There is no need for marked off measurements using a ballpoint pen or other tedious preparation with this simple approach. You will obtain accurate widths and tapers this way. Please refer to the image attached.

I use a 45 mm "Olfa" brand rotary cutter to cut my bands. With standard rubber exercise bands, or the "Precise" brand rubber from China, I can normally cut 3 band sets per 15-16 cm wide rubber section, with a straight remnant of "left-over" rubber approximately 10-15 mm wide at the end of the process. This I use either to cut wrap & tuck strips, or to make band sets suitable to shoot .177 cal. BB's. Thus, nothing is wasted.

Hope all this makes sense.
 

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asymmetrical band cutting like Pebble Shooter's image shows doesn't waste any material and I don't notice any difference in accuracy. Also I think the wear in more evenly distributed. There is a detailed post somewhere about it but i can't find it now.
 

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I agree with all above even although I always cut a half taper + 1mm @ the start (..20/12 = 4mm +1mm).

The reason I do this is I've found that some rolls may have a slight wavy edge/s (throughout the 2M length) & are no entirely straight when laid flat. Although this edge curvature can be slight..when I straighten this out by hand against the rule I've found my 2nd/3rd cuts across the width may exhibit this waviness also & so on.. I ken this is minor but it p*ss*d me aff when it happened a couple of times. So noo I just auto pilot a strip cut & dont worry if edges are straight/parallel or exactly 90° The most important thing in cutting bands that I've found is marking your active length correctly ie the waste should be approx. equal both ends. Mark your 1st waste end & draw your first line across your (150mm std) width, measure & mark your active length from this line. Dont measure in from both ends (as this assumes parallelism between both marked lines,) you want to keep any variables to your waste lengths. Hope this makes sense.. I'm curious if others have encountered this?
 

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I should not get into this but the only thing that matters is the distance between the ends. Both edges will taper to each other regardless of how square they are to the ends which is of little importance even after attachment to the forks. If a band is 20mm on one end and 15mm on the other it makes no difference how the sheet was oriented when you start. You could cut two bands at any angle on the sheet of latex and as long as they are the same dimensions it makes no difference how you start out. The only way it would make a difference is if the latex had a"grain" that affected it's performance.

Island (y)Made has it right.
 

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I use the " Btoon " band jig .
The key is to alternate your taper measure . Example : Using a 25 mm x 20 mm taper .
Mark your 25 mm on one side and 20 mm on the other . Cut band . Now mark your 20 mm first and 25 mm on the other end . Now you cut two bands leaving your remaining stock square . Continue alternating in the fashion . You end up with one small piece of stock which can be used for wrap and tuck or BB shooting bands . No waste this way .
Thats it thanks , that what Ive been doing , keeps the sheet pretty square, but thought I may have been missing something.. I hadnt got my numbers nailed down enough to get a jig
 

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Thats it thanks , that what Ive been doing , keeps the sheet pretty square, but thought I may have been missing something.. I hadnt got my numbers nailed down enough to get a jig
I've been doing it this way from the beginning . It works . Minimal to no waste . Symmetrical would be nice but at what cost to time and money .
 

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So Many Marbles ------------- So Little Time ;-)
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The guy that does our engraving made me a couple guides that are 22mm x 17mm x 187mm long --- just what I wanted. He also cut a 6" x 7 3/8" piece that I will use to cut the OAL of the bands, he did a great job, When my Thera Band Gold comes in today I will make a couple of sets ;- )




wll
 
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