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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For example, if you cut a 20/25 mm tapered bands, once you attach them to the frame and the pouch, these measurements (of the taper) are slightly reduced in the active bands. The active bands

They are reduced very little, I know, but do you take it into account when cutting them?

The truth is that I had never stopped to think this, maybe it seems silly to you lol.

Cheers.

*Edit: I put the photo in the OP so that people understand it better since writing I do not explain myself well. What way do you use A or B to make 20-25 taper?
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I'm so tight I squeak and get everything I can out of the bands ,,and latex is cheap. Short drawing I usually have about 6 to 6 1/2" of active band depending on the brand and thickness but when I cut them I usually cut the latex 9". Hopefully in use it will break at the pouch and I can simply move up the band and re-tie,,,,two or three times before I run out of band. As the band taper changes I alter length and ammo to reduce handslap but when the latex finally gets cut into strips for fork ties it has been well used.
 

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I'm so tight I squeak and get everything I can out of the bands ,,and latex is cheap. Short drawing I usually have about 6 to 6 1/2" of active band depending on the brand and thickness but when I cut them I usually cut the latex 9". Hopefully in use it will break at the pouch and I can simply move up the band and re-tie,,,,two or three times before I run out of band. As the band taper changes I alter length and ammo to reduce handslap but when the latex finally gets cut into strips for fork ties it has been well used.
Oh man that is good to hear sir!
I've been doing that and was kinda wondering if I was just cheaping out........
But I just can't help it!
I figure that my elongation is not that aggressive when the bands are first made up so by the time they have been shortened a few times, we are getting close to the recommended elongation factor.
Thanks for posting that!
 

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When I cut the taper I start with enough stock to account for the pouch ties and fork wrap . Example : I start with 10 inches of latex and cut my taper of say 1" x .75 " and then attach to pouch and fork tips . Now I'm only using 9 inches of band . Now will it be exactly 1 x .75 at the forks and band attachment ? Technically the answer is no . The amount of diminished latex is very minimal and won't matter . I do it this way consistently . I add or subtract on the next band set if needed .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I cut the taper I start with enough stock to account for the pouch ties and fork wrap . Example : I start with 10 inches of latex and cut my taper of say 1" x .75 " and then attach to pouch and fork tips . Now I'm only using 9 inches of band . Now will it be exactly 1 x .75 at the forks and band attachment ? Technically the answer is no . The amount of diminished latex is very minimal and won't matter . I do it this way consistently . I add or subtract on the next band set if needed .
I think I know what you mean. But excuse me since I don't speak English well and I use the translator. So I have made this drawing:

If you want to cut 20mm x 25mm tapered bands, how do you do it? Way A or way B?
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I think I know what you mean. But excuse me since I don't speak English well and I use the translator. So I have made this drawing:

If you want to cut 20mm x 25mm tapered bands, how do you do it? Way A or way B?
View attachment 360473


I usually go with "A" and figure it is close enough. But that is just me.
 

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I think I know what you mean. But excuse me since I don't speak English well and I use the translator. So I have made this drawing:

If you want to cut 20mm x 25mm tapered bands, how do you do it? Way A or way B?
View attachment 360473
Good drawing . I was attempting to explain that I use option A . In theory I would lose very little .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In my case when I make bands (I have not done many so far but it seems that they are going well), I lose 10mm in the pouch (too little? I don't know) and I lose about 7-8mm in the forks because if I leave more millimeters the rubber collides with the screw of the flipclip.
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In my case when I make bands (I have not done many so far but it seems that they are going well), I lose 10mm in the pouch (too little? I don't know) and I lose about 7-8mm in the forks because if I leave more millimeters the rubber collides with the screw of the flipclip.
View attachment 360480
Rb, this is exactly the same as I do with my SS Scout LT and use "option A " on your drawing as the lost taper is negligible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok thanks for the answers, I see that both options are used.

really if you think about it I don't think the change is much, but I had that doubt.

I hope to get a chronograph for summer maybe, and then I will do speed tests with both ways A and B. Besides many other many tests.
 

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I have no frames that use clips anymore. Even though the short draw bands I cut are too long , I just fold the excess over when I wrap the tips and live with it looking a little sloppy, heck I don't even own a shirt with a collar on it.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have no frames that use clips anymore. Even though the short draw bands I cut are too long , I just fold the excess over when I wrap the tips and live with it looking a little sloppy, heck I don't even own a shirt with a collar on it.:D
I have seen that folding in some photos. In a while I will buy another frame and maybe I will do that. Although I wanted to buy the small pocket predator HTS, which from what I have seen you can also put the flipclips of the Scout haha.
 

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I'm a B Version band maker. Also, I like to mix up the English Standard and Metric systems to what is easy for me.

Cut the latex length to the desired active length plus 1.5 inches. In the picture below that is 5.5 inches plus 1.5 to equal 7 inches overall. (5.5"+1.5"=7")

Then use the machinist ruler to draw the line on each end. The width of the ruler is .75 inches, so one on each end accounts for the 1.5 inch addition to the active length.

On this line, I then mark off my taper ticks, along with the written value of the distance in mm. All this provides reference later to know what the band size is and the line provides the tie reference for attaching the pouch and fork.

The .75 inch on the fork end provides a little +- to fine tune a band length if I want to tweak in the feel of the band attachment.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm a B Version band maker. Also, I like to mix up the English Standard and Metric systems to what is easy for me.

Cut the latex length to the desired active length plus 1.5 inches. In the picture below that is 5.5 inches plus 1.5 to equal 7 inches overall. (5.5"+1.5"=7")

Then use the machinist ruler to draw the line on each end. The width of the ruler is .75 inches, so one on each end accounts for the 1.5 inch addition to the active length.

On this line, I then mark off my taper ticks, along with the written value of the distance in mm. All this provides reference later to know what the band size is and the line provides the tie reference for attaching the pouch and fork.

The .75 inch on the fork end provides a little +- to fine tune a band length if I want to tweak in the feel of the band attachment.

View attachment 360519

View attachment 360521

View attachment 360520
Good method, I will use it to make several bands at the same time and have them prepared in bags.

One question, that way, in the first photo, the first band on the right would not be with its right side straight and the left tapered?

Sorry I woke up recently and I still have a thick head lol
 
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