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Here is a quick pic showing why I love to use Linseed Oil so much.

Being one of the easiest and cheapest finishes around, I believe nothing matches or even comes close to linseed oil for bringing out the natural beauty and grain structure in a wood at a very cheap price.

Another benefit of Linseed Oil is that it polymerizes, not dries. It is one of the few finishes that actually strengthen the wood by filling the microscopic pores and protects the wood against denting. Linseed Oil is used in the manufacture of nearly all quality willow cricket bats.

It is also one of the most populour finishes for:
  • Pool cues
  • Rifle Stocks
  • Woodwind instruments
  • Stringed instruments, especially guitars, mandolins and violins
  • Traditional wooden surfboards
  • Interior and exterior furniture
Enough blabbering, here is the pic,

Shows alongside is the raw piece of teak the frame was cut from.

The frame has been finished with no others stains or varnishes, just 3 days soaking in a can of Linseed Oil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. It is now waiting to cure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A $5 bottle of linseed and another $5 bottle of spirits will last you for hundreds of frames. Hard to beat value like that.

Also there is no work involved at all really. Soak it for a while, take it out, let it cure.

It does take some patience though, this frame will probably take up to a week to cure.
 

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I have never tried straight linseed oil but I do like the blended linseed oil finishes such as Danish Oil or Tru-Oil (oil/varnish blends). I have been using them for over 30 years.

Cheers,
Northerner
 

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Never tried, i usually use teak oil. i'm gonna try that. no tint in it?
 

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Do you pour the oil and spirits into a container and dunk or place the frame in it?
I just ordered an A+ unfinished sling, looking to finish it to look you know..finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you pour the oil and spirits into a container and dunk or place the frame in it?
I just ordered an A+ unfinished sling, looking to finish it to look you know..finished.
Yep, I have an old paint bucket I cleaned out and filled with the oil and spirits.

Stick the frame in, put the lid on, forget about it for a while.
 

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Looks great man,! I sometimes use a trick very similar, but instesd of indeed, use a very small amount of tar! aka bitumin diluted in mineral turps, i believe it serves the same purpose, but as opposed to the reddish color obtained by linseed oil, it brings out a browner grain,.. NICE JOB mate!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks great man,! I sometimes use a trick very similar, but instesd of indeed, use a very small amount of tar! aka bitumin diluted in mineral turps, i believe it serves the same purpose, but as opposed to the reddish color obtained by linseed oil, it brings out a browner grain,.. NICE JOB mate!
Cheers man, I'll give that a go!

Thanks for the tip.
 

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I am the club! I also like to use linseed oil, very eloquent example my friend.

 
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Wow! That is a beautiful finish. !!!

How do you set it up to dry/cure? I would guess nothing would need to be touching uncured teak?

RR
 

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BOL is THE finish, or undercoat to use on anything wood.

I have even used it to "POP" some cocobolo but that was a bit arduous.
 

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I only use linseed but never have I soaked one to get this shine. Something else to try. Thanks for the info.
 

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One of my next projects is a vaccum pot with BOL if it will work

If you work figured maple, again this is THE finish...
 
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