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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure what way to go turn it black or leave it natural.Have to carve some grooves into it and finish sanding it’s starting to feel really good and has nice wide forks should turn out to be a good frame .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
U know I did just the vinegar on a piece and it looks really good it’s bin in the back of my head .no not the patriot not sure what it is thinking pigmy hunter or something like that kinda similar to a mini hunter
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well got a couple hours on it tonight sanded to 600 and did what treeman suggested the oak turned pretty black the ply not so much looks really good wet .I think it has a cool look lots of character to it .Well let it dry up over night and see how I am going to finish it off ????
 

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Very cool my man!!! :thumbsup: I struggle with the same thing from time to time, leave it or experiment??

It's hard to improve on natural wood but sometimes a finish makes it really stand out. I like that vinegar only finish!! I have a small Oak natural almost finished and may have to give it a try! Keep up the good work!!!!
 

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@Port Boy...........PB, on your next one like this, you could have the best of both worlds, some of it blackened with the Iron Acetate

solution, and some of it remaining the natural Oak.

To do this, draw a very straight outline of the forks shape, about a 1/4" to 3/8" in from the actual outside edge of the frame.....basically, it would

look like the same shape fork, only one smaller on the inside fork shape. ( not sure if I"m being clear on that or not ? )

Then, you can take a wood burner and burn in a fairly deep groove, following that inside line you made, in the shape of the fork. That would act as a

kind of stop cut, as wood carvers use, so none of the solution goes inside that burned in perimeter.

Once you have that burned in, apply some blue painters tape over the center shape that will remain natural Oak color, overlapping your burned in lines,

and using a VERY sharp Exacto blade, follow the burned in groove and cut through the tape all the way around, leaving the internal shape of the sling

covered with tape so you don't get any of the solution on it.

Then, being very careful, and not applying to heavily / wet, take a small model painting paint brush, wet the bristles, but shake off the excess, and cover the

outside edge of the sling with the solution, applying it to the darkness you want.

If you are careful, and don't have the brush too wet, none of the solution should go under the taped off area, and you when you pull the tape off, you should have

a two-tone sling...........dark border, and natural, Oak wood inside that border...........sand lightly and use finish of choice, once the darker wood area is totally dry

of course.

** If that's not clear or makes sense, I'll post a pic of a Native Flute I did this to, which was Walnut, and I wanted darker spikes around the foot of it, and used the Iron Acetate for this **
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Very cool my man!!! :thumbsup: I struggle with the same thing from time to time, leave it or experiment??

It's hard to improve on natural wood but sometimes a finish makes it really stand out. I like that vinegar only finish!! I have a small Oak natural almost finished and may have to give it a try! Keep up the good work!!!!
Thanks Jake i lucked out on a oak skid so i can experiment a little :) and just to be clear the vinegar had the steel wool in it no straight vinegar but worked well !
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@Port Boy...........PB, on your next one like this, you could have the best of both worlds, some of it blackened with the Iron Acetate

solution, and some of it remaining the natural Oak.

To do this, draw a very straight outline of the forks shape, about a 1/4" to 3/8" in from the actual outside edge of the frame.....basically, it would

look like the same shape fork, only one smaller on the inside fork shape. ( not sure if I"m being clear on that or not ? )

Then, you can take a wood burner and burn in a fairly deep groove, following that inside line you made, in the shape of the fork. That would act as a

kind of stop cut, as wood carvers use, so none of the solution goes inside that burned in perimeter.

Once you have that burned in, apply some blue painters tape over the center shape that will remain natural Oak color, overlapping your burned in lines,

and using a VERY sharp Exacto blade, follow the burned in groove and cut through the tape all the way around, leaving the internal shape of the sling

covered with tape so you don't get any of the solution on it.

Then, being very careful, and not applying to heavily / wet, take a small model painting paint brush, wet the bristles, but shake off the excess, and cover the

outside edge of the sling with the solution, applying it to the darkness you want.

If you are careful, and don't have the brush too wet, none of the solution should go under the taped off area, and you when you pull the tape off, you should have

a two-tone sling...........dark border, and natural, Oak wood inside that border...........sand lightly and use finish of choice, once the darker wood area is totally dry

of course.

** If that's not clear or makes sense, I'll post a pic of a Native Flute I did this to, which was Walnut, and I wanted darker spikes around the foot of it, and used the Iron Acetate for this **
THanks i think i am with u on this could have a dark centre light out side well i have lots of oak boards to play with just have pick a frame ;) Mmmm..... think a universal fork be good :headbang:
 

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SLING-N-SHOT
Joined
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4,404 Posts
@Port Boy...........PB, on your next one like this, you could have the best of both worlds, some of it blackened with the Iron Acetate

solution, and some of it remaining the natural Oak.

To do this, draw a very straight outline of the forks shape, about a 1/4" to 3/8" in from the actual outside edge of the frame.....basically, it would

look like the same shape fork, only one smaller on the inside fork shape. ( not sure if I"m being clear on that or not ? )

Then, you can take a wood burner and burn in a fairly deep groove, following that inside line you made, in the shape of the fork. That would act as a

kind of stop cut, as wood carvers use, so none of the solution goes inside that burned in perimeter.

Once you have that burned in, apply some blue painters tape over the center shape that will remain natural Oak color, overlapping your burned in lines,

and using a VERY sharp Exacto blade, follow the burned in groove and cut through the tape all the way around, leaving the internal shape of the sling

covered with tape so you don't get any of the solution on it.

Then, being very careful, and not applying to heavily / wet, take a small model painting paint brush, wet the bristles, but shake off the excess, and cover the

outside edge of the sling with the solution, applying it to the darkness you want.

If you are careful, and don't have the brush too wet, none of the solution should go under the taped off area, and you when you pull the tape off, you should have

a two-tone sling...........dark border, and natural, Oak wood inside that border...........sand lightly and use finish of choice, once the darker wood area is totally dry

of course.

** If that's not clear or makes sense, I'll post a pic of a Native Flute I did this to, which was Walnut, and I wanted darker spikes around the foot of it, and used the Iron Acetate for this **
THanks i think i am with u on this could have a dark centre light out side well i have lots of oak boards to play with just have pick a frame ;) Mmmm..... think a universal fork be good :headbang:
I was actually thinking you'd leave the center of the handle natural Oak, and darken the outside perimeter of the fork.....since you used ply for the core, as that would leave some contrast on the sides between the core and the outside perimeter ? ( but hey, you do you my friend, whatever makes you happy, makes ME happy, lol. )
 
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