I almost always consider bark-on shooters to be expendable, so I don't finish them to any great degree.

I have done a few with tung oil and a few with superglue. they generally turn out fine. Sometimes the oil will really change the appearance of the bark, usually making it darker.

 

Probably the only way to keep from falling of eventually is stabilising the whole slingshot in epoxy or something like that.

 

Hey Jake,

With my last one i made it took me so long to finish the bark started popping off the wood before I could apply a finish. I took advantage of this and slipped some epoxy underneath the edge of the whole thing. Afterwards I finished shaping and did a superglue finish over the rest to ensure it should not separate again.

I think sugar maple is one of the best woods to do a bark on natural, they always seem to work best for me.

 

This is my latest. I did a ca finish on it and really feel like the bark is there to stay. You can't feel any lip of the edge at all, feels smooth as glass all the way around.

 

CH Thats such a nice natty looks so good
I am interested in saving the bark on it to May try that linseed under pressure technic [emoji6]
Stabilizing seems the way to go

 

If the bark itself is holding good by default I'm using linseed oil but in a heated bath.

• an old pan filled with raw linseed oil
• a metal cup filled with water placed inside the oil - the level of water is at the same as the oil
• place the slingshot inside - start heating
• keep the water below boiling point- somewhere between 80-100°C (sorry, Eu units, I know)
• I was using a device to measure temperature, but in practice it was somehow simplier
• after the wood starts leaking air bubbles (3-6 min) rotate the fork each five mins
• 15-25 min is usually enough even for a larger frame
• when ready you can wipe off the oil - if you don't have time just leave some oil on the surface, the whole process is working until the wood is warm
• when the wood is still warm you can also apply wax-turpentine coat or anything that's to your likeness

I suggest to make a test on a piece of course Some thicker and more articulated barks are not prefer this method. Thinner ones are preferred. Also you can mix carving and stabilizing The oiled bark might be shaped forward at some areas.

:wave:

 

Thanks for all the input, gentlemen. It's always appreciated!

 

If the bark itself is holding good by default I'm using linseed oil but in a heated bath.

• an old pan filled with raw linseed oil
• a metal cup filled with water placed inside the oil - the level of water is at the same as the oil
• place the slingshot inside - start heating
• keep the water below boiling point- somewhere between 80-100°C (sorry, Eu units, I know)
• I was using a device to measure temperature, but in practice it was somehow simplier
• after the wood starts leaking air bubbles (3-6 min) rotate the fork each five mins
• 15-25 min is usually enough even for a larger frame
• when ready you can wipe off the oil - if you don't have time just leave some oil on the surface, the whole process is working until the wood is warm
• when the wood is still warm you can also apply wax-turpentine coat or anything that's to your likeness

I suggest to make a test on a piece of course Some thicker and more articulated barks are not prefer this method. Thinner ones are preferred. Also you can mix carving and stabilizing The oiled bark might be shaped forward at some areas.

:wave:

just to clarify, you mean that you are warming water in a pan or pot, and you place a metal container with oil in it, into the heated water? Right?

Btw guys, beware of oil and wax, if it starts to burn (it shouldnt when u use the method Tremo described) dont pour water on it, never. It will explode into a fiery boom (I know it from my own experience, blew up our kitchen a bit when I was little ). Use a wet towel to smother the fire.

 

If the bark itself is holding good by default I'm using linseed oil but in a heated bath.

• an old pan filled with raw linseed oil
• a metal cup filled with water placed inside the oil - the level of water is at the same as the oil
• place the slingshot inside - start heating
• keep the water below boiling point- somewhere between 80-100°C (sorry, Eu units, I know)
• I was using a device to measure temperature, but in practice it was somehow simplier
• after the wood starts leaking air bubbles (3-6 min) rotate the fork each five mins
• 15-25 min is usually enough even for a larger frame
• when ready you can wipe off the oil - if you don't have time just leave some oil on the surface, the whole process is working until the wood is warm
• when the wood is still warm you can also apply wax-turpentine coat or anything that's to your likeness

I suggest to make a test on a piece of course Some thicker and more articulated barks are not prefer this method. Thinner ones are preferred. Also you can mix carving and stabilizing The oiled bark might be shaped forward at some areas.

:wave:

just to clarify, you mean that you are warming water in a pan or pot, and you place a metal container with oil in it, into the heated water? Right?

Btw guys, beware of oil and wax, if it starts to burn (it shouldnt when u use the method Tremo described) dont pour water on it, never. It will explode into a fiery boom (I know it from my own experience, blew up our kitchen a bit when I was little ). Use a wet towel to smother the fire.

Needs attention and continuous control! I also have an ABC powder fire extinguisher.

 

If the bark itself is holding good by default I'm using linseed oil but in a heated bath.

• an old pan filled with raw linseed oil
• a metal cup filled with water placed inside the oil - the level of water is at the same as the oil
• place the slingshot inside - start heating
• keep the water below boiling point- somewhere between 80-100°C (sorry, Eu units, I know)
• I was using a device to measure temperature, but in practice it was somehow simplier
• after the wood starts leaking air bubbles (3-6 min) rotate the fork each five mins
• 15-25 min is usually enough even for a larger frame
• when ready you can wipe off the oil - if you don't have time just leave some oil on the surface, the whole process is working until the wood is warm
• when the wood is still warm you can also apply wax-turpentine coat or anything that's to your likeness

I suggest to make a test on a piece of course Some thicker and more articulated barks are not prefer this method. Thinner ones are preferred. Also you can mix carving and stabilizing The oiled bark might be shaped forward at some areas.

:wave:

just to clarify, you mean that you are warming water in a pan or pot, and you place a metal container with oil in it, into the heated water? Right?

Btw guys, beware of oil and wax, if it starts to burn (it shouldnt when u use the method Tremo described) dont pour water on it, never. It will explode into a fiery boom (I know it from my own experience, blew up our kitchen a bit when I was little ). Use a wet towel to smother the fire.

Or better yet... A purpose produced fire blanket made from fiberglass cloth. Even a single drop of water falling from the wet towel can cause a very nasty flash explosion. Water falls in the burning oil, turns to steam instantly. The tiny water droplets carry the oil like an aerosol.

A fiberglass fire blanket in a quick deploy wall mounted packaging costs maybe ten bucks, if that.
Smart move to mount up next to the kitchen stove, I'd say.

 

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/39005-canadian-maple-natural-slingshot/

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/42799-two-impromptu-slingshots/

Some of my bark-ons

Cheers ...Q

 

Not sure if it's true, perhaps someone else can confirm - I have heard that if the tree is harvested in the winter months, that the bark will be more secure on the wood, whereas a tree harvested in summer months, the bark will be more likely to separate from the wood.

 

Thanks for the pics, Q! Exactly what I had in mind!

 

Not sure if it's true, perhaps someone else can confirm - I have heard that if the tree is harvested in the winter months, that the bark will be more secure on the wood, whereas a tree harvested in summer months, the bark will be more likely to separate from the wood.

I think you are referring to moon wood , if you harvest wood when there is a new moon (mostly in winter) the sap is at it lowest levels and this wood won't crack.

 

I have made many bark on slingshots and I have never done anything special - other than make certain the wood is well seasoned and stable. If it is thoroughly dry and the bark is solidly in place you will likely be okay. I finish my bark-on slingshots with a polyurethane varnish and have had no problem. There's a photo or two of a couple of bark-on slingshots in my gallery.

winnie

 

It depends on the wood species and individual limbs too...a species that retains bark after drying can also display separations by itself before working on it...so there are no pat rules. I would agree however with John Krakatoa, if you have a vacuum stabilizing outfit, the resin will seep into any void between the bark and core and stick them together when the resin sets. Also, rubbing long cure epoxy into any void with your finger would also stick the bark to the core if the penetration was good. I say long cure epoxy because the five minute stuff may harden or gel before it seeps in enough.

Unfortunately all the dried forks I've used had the bark OFF the core or coming off, so I've not been able to execute a partial bark frame. I think the color and texture contrast with sanded core wood is kewl.

I have dipped a rough rasped fork in PU and let it stay an hour to get the PU into all the hairline cracks. When it dries completely hard in two days, it will contract and unfill the filled cracks with a void. Dip again, dry 2 days. Then if the cracks persist, rub on clear 30 minute epoxy to fill them. Then start the rest of the rasp and sanding cycles.

Roger has demonstrated a dandy way to fill cracks and this may apply to partly separated lips of bark. Apply CA liberally to the area to wet it down well and with a bit of excess CA, and sand (maybe 200 grit??) over the crack or lip immediately with the CA wet. The sanding dust will make a slurry with the CA and fill the crack and dry before your eyes and the color match will be pretty good since the wood itself made the filler. If the crack doesn't fill completely, do it again...it'll eventually fill.

 

The woods I have had the most luck with having tenacious bark have pretty much always been shrubs. For a number of years I would commonly stop in at cemeteries while out on my motorcycle to find forks. It turns out that most cemeteries have a brush pile and many of the scraps are ornamentals that don't get real tall. Not only do you find beautiful wood but the assorted barks can be really pretty too. So long as they were cut when the sap wasn't running (Fall and Winter are best) then the bark is generally pretty solid. I've had very little trouble under these circumstances without having to vacuum flask them.

winnie

 

If the bark itself is holding good by default I'm using linseed oil but in a heated bath.

• an old pan filled with raw linseed oil
• a metal cup filled with water placed inside the oil - the level of water is at the same as the oil
• place the slingshot inside - start heating
• keep the water below boiling point- somewhere between 80-100°C (sorry, Eu units, I know)
• I was using a device to measure temperature, but in practice it was somehow simplier
• after the wood starts leaking air bubbles (3-6 min) rotate the fork each five mins
• 15-25 min is usually enough even for a larger frame
• when ready you can wipe off the oil - if you don't have time just leave some oil on the surface, the whole process is working until the wood is warm
• when the wood is still warm you can also apply wax-turpentine coat or anything that's to your likeness

I suggest to make a test on a piece of course Some thicker and more articulated barks are not prefer this method. Thinner ones are preferred. Also you can mix carving and stabilizing The oiled bark might be shaped forward at some areas.

:wave:

Understand the dangers of this method .

 

If the bark itself is holding good by default I'm using linseed oil but in a heated bath.

• an old pan filled with raw linseed oil
• a metal cup filled with water placed inside the oil - the level of water is at the same as the oil
• place the slingshot inside - start heating
• keep the water below boiling point- somewhere between 80-100°C (sorry, Eu units, I know)
• I was using a device to measure temperature, but in practice it was somehow simplier
• after the wood starts leaking air bubbles (3-6 min) rotate the fork each five mins
• 15-25 min is usually enough even for a larger frame
• when ready you can wipe off the oil - if you don't have time just leave some oil on the surface, the whole process is working until the wood is warm
• when the wood is still warm you can also apply wax-turpentine coat or anything that's to your likeness

I suggest to make a test on a piece of course Some thicker and more articulated barks are not prefer this method. Thinner ones are preferred. Also you can mix carving and stabilizing The oiled bark might be shaped forward at some areas.

:wave:

Understand the dangers of this method .

I think Tremo just made a translation typo, and exchanged the containers in his words, I think