Edited 12/03/2025
Quick intro, I consider myself an intermediate slingshooter and have been into the sport for about 4 years now. I started my journey with tubes, but now mostly shoot flat bands, and love both equally. I have seen a lot of beginner tips for flat band and shooting in general, but there's a scarcity of information on tubes for beginners. I would like to share my experience for those just starting out on their tube shooting journey. I am assuming reader knows the basics of slingshots, and this guide is specific for tubes. To start off, please watch this video to see the ultimate form of tube shooting and get inspired: frameless, long pull, rapid shooting with amazing accuracy. Fast shooting with frameless tube by Mr Qiu, the owner of Precise, and world record holder for faster shooting.
**Disclaimer, I live in a tropical climate, and I have no experience shooting in cold weather. I shoot mostly short pull (cheek anchor), but am dabbling in long pull / semi-butterfly. I shoot primarily 8mm (5/16") steel, but also occasionally shoot 9/10mm clay, 10mm (3/8") steel and 7mm steel. If I haven't personally verified a statement, I will mention so.
1. Types of tubes & nomenclature
2. Tube vs flat bands
3. Addressing advantages (of both types) others have mentioned that I feel are insignificant
4. Why are tubes less popular than flat bands
5. Types of tube systems
6. Attachment systems
7. Best elongation factor
8. Tube performance data and charts
9. Recommended tube size
10. What tube size / frame / system do I shoot
Thanks for reading to the end guys, hope you found it helpful. If I missed anything, or any additional questions please do leave me a comment. I am still learning, and if relevant I will add it and give credit where due.
Quick intro, I consider myself an intermediate slingshooter and have been into the sport for about 4 years now. I started my journey with tubes, but now mostly shoot flat bands, and love both equally. I have seen a lot of beginner tips for flat band and shooting in general, but there's a scarcity of information on tubes for beginners. I would like to share my experience for those just starting out on their tube shooting journey. I am assuming reader knows the basics of slingshots, and this guide is specific for tubes. To start off, please watch this video to see the ultimate form of tube shooting and get inspired: frameless, long pull, rapid shooting with amazing accuracy. Fast shooting with frameless tube by Mr Qiu, the owner of Precise, and world record holder for faster shooting.
**Disclaimer, I live in a tropical climate, and I have no experience shooting in cold weather. I shoot mostly short pull (cheek anchor), but am dabbling in long pull / semi-butterfly. I shoot primarily 8mm (5/16") steel, but also occasionally shoot 9/10mm clay, 10mm (3/8") steel and 7mm steel. If I haven't personally verified a statement, I will mention so.
1. Types of tubes & nomenclature
- There are 2 general types of tubes commercially available, hollow (Dankung style) tubes as well as solid tubes
- Hollow tubes are listed as internal diameter / external diameter, in a tenth of millimeter. For e.g. 1842 tubes are 1.8mm internal diameter and 4.2mm external diameter
- Solid tubes (I have seen Americans calling them "dub-dub") are usually listed in mm
- Hollow tubes are by far much more common and commercially available. I have seen sources stating that hollow tubes have superior performance (faster speed for lighter pull), but I cannot confirm it as I have no experience with solid tubes.
2. Tube vs flat bands
- Ok, this is a very controversial topic, with tons of discussions in multiple forums, and a lot of bias involved. I will try and be as unbiased as possible as I love both types
- Pros of tubes
- Better longevity - there are many other factors that contribute to longevity, such as band thickness, tapering, elongation factor, exposure etc. However in general, everyone agrees that tubes do last longer than flat bands
- More durable - this is a huge one for me, and I don't see people talking about it often. Aside from longevity of a well stored band set, tubes are also much more durable and can withstand nicks and scrapes much better than flats. For my EDC, I wear frameless tubes on my wrist and they can withstand my daily activities no problem, not so for flats.
- Ease of making - tubes are very easy to make (just tie on pouch), compared to flats where you have to cut it to your specification. However, more advanced tube sets (pseudotapered, protective casings etc) can be just as complicated
- Ease of attachment - this only applies to looped and bead stuck (aka ball locked), which takes seconds to change on frames with built in slots. Tie on tubes takes just as much effort
- Rapid shooting - tubes allow for rapid reloading, especially when shot in single tube OTT format
- Cost - I previously included cost in the "not significant" section, but after giving it some more thought, if budget was an issue or if you live in a place where it's difficult to source latex, you may want to stick with single tubes, cut with a more relaxed elongation to get the best mileage per roll. Aside from the above setting, in general I have not found much difference in costs.
- Pros of flat bands
- Most significantly, better performance - no one denies that flat bands are almost always faster for a given draw weight / pull
- More frame options - this is a big one. There are tons of commercial options for flat band frames, but much less for tubes. However its always possible to rig a flat frame to accommodate tubes.
- More consistent performance (between batches) - latex, being a natural product will always have some inherent inconsistencies, despite good QC on modern latex from big brands. However, I have noticed more variations and inconsistencies between batches of tubes than flats, even from the same manufacturer. If you're very OCD about consistent latex performance, stick with flats.
- Ease of tuning - ease of making is inversely related to ease of tuning. Because you have to cut the bands yourself, you gain more flexibility in tuning. For e.g., I stick with Snipersling yellow 0.6mm for my flats, and cut it narrower for 8mm steel and wider for my larger ammo. But for my tubes, I need to buy separate sizes for each ammo size, and also for different shooting styles (single, double etc).
3. Addressing advantages (of both types) others have mentioned that I feel are insignificant
- Tubes are quieter - yes, tubes are quieter when shooting, but I find most of the sound coming from impact anyway, so don't find this a significant advantage
- Safety - some people have quoted tapered flats being safer as it usually frays at the pouch attachment, and if it snaps the bands usually fly forward and avoid face slaps. Conversely, some people say tubes are safer as when it starts frays, it usually frays slowly and can hang on much longer before it snaps, giving more time to notice it. Either way, check your bands often, and I have never had issues with either.
- Accuracy - ok this is a big one. I have seen many people complain that tubes are less accurate, and others saying they're the same. It is my firm belief that tubes are as accurate as flats. The problem isn't the type of the latex, but the system / attachment used. Single tubes with fixed attachments are just as easy to gain consistency (and hence accuracy) as flats. However the most popular tube system is looped double tubes, which is more difficult (but still possible) to be consistent and gain accuracy. Also, tubes need to be near maxed out for better consistency.
4. Why are tubes less popular than flat bands
- If you've read the above pros and cons, you can get a sense of why flat bands are more popular. Most shooters don't mind the the poorer longevity and more frequent & time consuming band making of flats, in exchange for better performance. People who gravitate towards tubes are those who prefer simplicity and durability rather than performance.
5. Types of tube systems
- Single tubes
- Most akin to flat band shooting
- OTT style allows for quick reloading and rapid shooting
- Although tube OTT is good for rapid shooting (and I shoot OTT for my flat bands), I prefer TTF attachment for single tubes. Tube TTF has the benefit of having a narrower band to aim down compared to the wide aiming point of flat band TTF. And tube OTT's aiming point is slightly off laterally from the fork tip as the tubes are thicker than flats in OTT format, especially with addition of a larger tube casing or thick tabs
- Double tubes
- Most common system of tube shooting
- Can be either freely moving (looped) or fixed (bead stuck / ball locked / clamped), both shoot like TTF (a lot of people mistakenly call typical looped tubes in looped frames as OTT, as one of the limbs go "over the top", however as the second limb goes between the forks, in reality it performs like TTF)
- Double tubes have slightly better performance than single tubes (slightly better speed for similar draw weight), but slightly worse longevity (2 thinner tubes break faster than 1 thicker tube). And because of the doubling of tube usage and shorter longevity, they tend to cost more.
- Biggest draw back, now that there are 2 tubes per fork, is that the horizontal alignment of the tubes and frame becomes very important (not a problem with flats and single tubes). I tend to shoot flat bands and single tubes with a straight wrist, with my frame pushed slightly forward horizontally. However if you do the same with "fixed" double tubes, it will throw off the windage of the shot as both limbs are not stretched equally. So it becomes important to maintain a perfectly perpendicular frame to the target (in addition to being perpendicular to the floor).
- "Looped" double tubes is able to adjust for straight wrist shooting because it's freely moving, however now has the problem of "binding" to the frame when being pulled. If the looped tubes are not centered when binding happens, or if the orientation of the frame when the binding occurs is not the same as the final position when aiming, the bands are not centered and are not stretched equally, it will again throw off the windage of the shot
- Because of the above reasons, many new tube shooters feel that tubes are less accurate then flats. However in actuality its not the tubes, but the systems and attachments that introduces additional factors that needs to be controlled, factors that some people are not aware of or used to controlling
- Pseudotapered tubes
- There are many ways to pseudotaper tubes, but the 3 main types are semi-looped, Y-cocktail and tube-in-tube cocktail
- Benefit of pseudotapering is optimal performance (fastest speed for lightest pull), although I have never achieved the same performance as tapered flat bands
- Comes at a cost of reduced longevity
- Typical recommended pseudotapering is for 1/3 of the active length. That usually increases the draw weight by roughly 20% of equivalent single tubes
- Semi-looped pseudotapering is probably the most well known and common, meant for any frames that takes loops. Has the same issue of binding as looped double tubes. I use the 3rd method shown by Nate Masters for best longevity.
- Y-cocktail is for bead stuck or ball locked frames, as shown by GZK. Has same issue of requiring perfectly perpendicular frame to prevent windage errors. Additional benefit of being cost effective, as it is made from 2 separate pieces of tubes, and usually only the distal / pouch end needs to be replaced
- Tube-in-tube cocktail is the most difficult to make, needing special tools. It's also the most flexible, and can be used for any of the systems. I have no personal experience but have read that it has the best longevity. Here's an example by GZK.
6. Attachment systems
- Production frames
- Loop frames
- Most widely available commercial tube frames. Has forks with large holes and insertion slots for looped tubes.
- Common examples are the famous SPS, Simpleshot Torque, Pocket Predator Taurus, Dankung style traditional wire loop frames etc
- Very popular as it allows for rapid attaching and swapping band sets
- Has problem with binding (see point 5)
- Another unique attachment is a single looped tube on a loop frame with additional midline hook / loop for quick attachment, usually shot OTT. Easiest attachment system for single tubes. Good example is GZK's Xiaofork.
- Ball in tube / bead stuck / ball locked
- Different names for the same system, where a small steel ball (usually 4.5mm) is stuck into frame end of tubes and locks tube in place to frame
- Good examples are GZK Snail, Victory, Sniper Eagle
- I was initially weary of the balls slipping out, but it's actually a very secure system
- Takes a bit more effort making the bands and inserting the balls. I'm able to do it with just my hemostat but there are dedicated insertion tools available
- If double tubes are used, has problem of needing perpendicular frame to target (see point 5). Hence tend to be offered in hammer style grip.
- Clamps
- Any frame that offers external clamps or clips (flipclip for Simpleshot frames, clamps for Wasp frames, clips for Pocket Predator universal Ranger etc) can also attach looped or single tubes OTT or TTF by wrapping the loop around the screw, as shown by Nate Masters here
- Tubes comes around the fork and cause fraying at the fork junction, shortening band longevity
- Any frame that offers external clamps or clips (flipclip for Simpleshot frames, clamps for Wasp frames, clips for Pocket Predator universal Ranger etc) can also attach looped or single tubes OTT or TTF by wrapping the loop around the screw, as shown by Nate Masters here
- Plugs
- Don't see this very often, but some companies offer tube plugs for looped tubes. Have only really seen it from Wasp
- Benefit is the 2 limbs are side-by-side, less issue with unequal stretch
- There are 2 options, plug the tubes on target side and have bands come out straight towards you (performs like TTF)
- plug on shooter side and have bands come around the forks, either OTT or TTF and shoots like flat bands
- Plugging on shooter side does bring tubes around the fork and cause fraying at the fork junction, shortening band longevity
- Loop frames
- DIY
- The beauty of tubes is that aside from pre-made attachments, there are so many other innovative ways to attach them to a fork
- Frameless!
- I think this is my favorite way of shooting tubes, and the main reason why I will never give up on tubes. It is just so cool and also the ultimate EDC. I have seen many frames being marketed as "EDC", but let's be honest, I would never carry a frame, however pocketable to a dinner or to my workplace. But I just went for an international conference and travelled overseas with my frameless tubes.
- Here is an example of how to make and shoot frameless by Hudson. How to Make and Shoot Frameless Slingshot
- Watch this video to be inspired by the ultimate form of tube shooting: frameless, long pull, rapid shooting with amazing accuracy Fast shooting with frameless tube
- Tie or clipped onto any standard flat band frame
- Mostly for single tubes
- As tubes slip easier than flats, make extra loops with longer piece of tie on material and tying the tubes on really tight
- Always check for slippage before pulling to your face to avoid face slaps
- Use protective tube casing as tubes will fray at fork junction. The thicker tube will also help prevent slippage. Here's an example by GZK. The making of tube casing
- For universal frames that has both loop slots and flat band groves such as Simpleshot Torque and SPS, there's also this unique TTF option shown by Nate Masters (my favourite option) Tutorial-Torque Slingshot for TTF Tubular Bands
- Tabs
- A very popular DIY attachment is using tabs, where tubes are attached onto tabs before tying onto flat band frames
- Commonly used tabs are strips of leather or microfiber (spare pouches are a popular option) or paracord.
- Many options available. Tabs can either be tied on single (with a hole) or looped. Tubes can either be looped through a tab, or tied on tight to become a single tube.
- Benefit over simple tie on is no need for protective casing as it doesn't rub against fork junction
- Here are some examples. gyspy catapult tabs the easy way! ROUGH AND READY NATURAL HUNTING SLINGSHOT TUBES & TABS Metro Made | Making a Tap & Tab Descender Slingshot
- Pins
- I have seen people attaching loop tubes through forks with holes and pinning it with a peg (wooden, metal, silicone etc). Functions just like the Wasp plug attachment
- Should work on any frame that has a small hole at the forks, for e.g. Simpleshot Scout, Pocket Predator Universal Ranger, Wasp Uniphoxx
- Just like the plug attachment, there is option to pin on target side and have bands come out straight towards you, or pin on shooter side and have bands come around the forks, either OTT or TTF
- Nate Masters from Simpleshot also showed an innovative way to pin the looped tubes to the frame itself. More Ways to Install Bands on the Scout slingshot - Looped Tubes
- Slots / snugged
- Don't see this often, and usually custom made, where people cut slots into their frames to attach the tubes (I have never done this). I'm not aware of any commercial frames that offer this system, but seems really cool.
- Here's an example by Robert Pursley How to Set Up a Tube Set for Your Snugged Slingshot.
- I'm sure there are other inventive ways to attach tubes to frames. If there's something I missed, please do share!
7. Best elongation factor
- It's been my experience that its best to max out / near max out tube bands for better accuracy, compared to flat bands
- My go to would be to add 10% to the active length with max elongation factor. Good example how to measure max elongation factor shown here by Mark. QUICK TIP: BAND ELONGATION
- For example, my current GZK 2040 has max elongation factor of 6x. My draw length is 75cm. So the max active length is 75 / 6 = 13cm. Add 10% to that would make my active length 14cm.
8. Tube performance data and charts
- I have seen various tube performance data and charts reported for different size tubes and ammo, and noticed that they're very varied and contradictory. I have also tried to experiment on my own and bought many different tube sizes from various big brands (GZK, Dankung, Simpleshot, Precise).
- Here is my conclusion, unfortunately there are large variations and inconsistencies between various brands, sizes and even batches (of the same size/manufacturer). I have had tubes where the same size / brand had almost 30% difference in draw weight between batches. I even had, on 2 separate occasions with 2 different brands where a "thicker" band ended up having a lighter pull and slower speeds than a "thinner" band of the same brand.
- Hence, I see no point in reporting data, making charts and expecting reproducible numbers. In my opinion its more important to understand the average performance of a given tube size, and know that you may get a tube that is slightly lighter or heavier then expected, and that you're stuck with 10 meters of that product.
- If you're not okay with the above statement, tubes is not for you.
9. Recommended tube size
- Keeping in mind point no. 8, here is what tube sizes I'd recommend
- Please take note that I shoot short pull (cheek anchor), and I have only tried the standard sizes offered by most brands (1632, 1636, 2040, 1842, 1745, 2050, 3060). I have not tried the more unique sizes some brands offer (3050, 2055 etc).
- 8mm (5/16") steel
- single / pseudotapered - 2040 for target, 1745 for hunting
- double - 1636 for target, 2040 for hunting
- 10mm (3/8") steel
- single / pseudotapered - 1745 for target, 2050 for hunting
- double - 2040 for target, 1842 for heavy
- Light ammo (clay, 7mm steel)
- 1636 for single / pseudotapered, 1632 for double
- For long pull / butterfly, downsize by 1 level of thickness (for example for 8mm steel, downsize single tube 2040 to 1636)
10. What tube size / frame / system do I shoot
- This is very dynamic and my answer will most certainly change with time, but as of today here is my answer
- Frameless single tube 1636 Aliexpress ice-green shooting clay, 36cm total length (18cm active length in each limb).
- Single tube 2040 15cm (14cm active length + 1cm for ball in tube) on my GZK Snail, my current favorite tube frame.
- Semi-looped pseudotaper 2040 14cm active length (5cm double, 9cm single) on my GZK Serpentine Fox (modified flat tips Dankung style frame).
- For semi-butterfly shooting, single tube 1636 36cm total length (16cm in each limb + 2cm for attachment x2) on GZK Xiaofork-S.
- Y-cocktail pseudotaper 2040 15cm active length (5cm double + 1cm for attachment, 9cm single) on my GZK Sniper Eagle. My least shot frame as I don't like hammer grip, and don't like to be forced to keep my wrist bent to maintain a perpendicular frame.
Thanks for reading to the end guys, hope you found it helpful. If I missed anything, or any additional questions please do leave me a comment. I am still learning, and if relevant I will add it and give credit where due.
